The Alcazaba: Granada’s Military Fortress inside the Alhambra

Visit the Alcazaba of the Alhambra in Granada, with its fortress walls, historic towers, city views and centuries-old military history.

The visit to the large arabesque complex of Granada usually starts at the Alcazaba, the point furthest from the ticket office and also the least Moorish part of the entire Alhambra, where the oldest and the most recent buildings are concentrated: in this article I want to explain to you why.

Please Note
There is no fixed order for visiting the different areas of the Alhambra, as you can read here. The Palacios Nazaríes, however, have a specific entry time, which you will find on your ticket: if your access to these palaces is not immediate, my advice is to make the most of the time you have by starting with the Alcazaba and the Palacio de Carlos V. You will find more tips in our article Alhambra: what to see.

Map of the Alcazaba

The Alcazaba

Being the oldest part of the fortress,  it is not certain that the Alcazaba was founded by the Arabs, but it certainly enjoyed its greatest splendour under them. The name itself proves this: as you will already have guessed from other pages on our site, all places whose name begins with Al share the same origin, the particle being the article in the Moorish language. If “Al-Hamra” means “The Red”, “Al-Qasaba” could be translated as “The Rock” or “The Citadel”.

The military area, therefore, enclosed by defensive walls which, in the case of Granada, are truly impregnable. The best view of this imposing curtain of walls is from the Albaycìn quarter, from which we can fully appreciate how, by siting the structure on the crag it occupies, it was made unassailable by its design along the whole long flank sheer above the Darro river. Here’s a photo.

alcazaba granada

Unfortunately, little remains of the original structure, now limited to the walls and a few towers, such as the Torre de la Vela which I’ll talk about shortly. I recommend starting your tour right here because, from this position, you’ll have the best view over the city below you and over the Sierra Nevada that encircles the valley. I had fun here putting away the map of the complex and exploring the ruins, climbing the towers, strolling along the battlements. By following my example, you’ll be able to appreciate the sensation of power felt by those who ruled Granada in centuries past.

Further Information
The origin of the Alcazaba is uncertain, and this is the area that has undergone the most changes over time: this is the first reason why I described it as the least Arab part of the complex. It is thought to have been built even before the Muslims arrived in Granada, as there were already several constructions in the same area. The first historical reference dates back to the 9th century, and it seems to have been built by Sawwar Ben Hamdun during the struggles between Muslims and muladi, Christians who had converted to Islam and lived among Muslims. The person who transformed the complex into what we know today was Mohammed I, who built the bastions around the old castle, as well as three new towers: the Torre Quebrada, the Torre del Homenaje and the Torre de la Vela. From this moment on, the Alcazaba became a true fortress, capable of containing and protecting the royal residence.

The Torre de la Vela

In Spanish, the vela is simply the candle. The name of the most imposing tower in the entire Alhambra (but not the tallest, which is in the Palacio de Comares) refers to the role it fulfilled: the soldiers’ watch. It was, in fact, the principal observation point for the defence of the fortress, as evidenced even today by the bell, which was rung in case of alarm.

alcazaba alhamba

Today, four enormous flags fly from the tower, clearly visible even from a distance: the European Union, Spain, Andalusia and Granada. The latter, which those less familiar with it may confuse with the flag of Portugal — both are red and green, but the division between the bands is central in the Granadan flag and shifted to the left in the Portuguese one, while the coat of arms is completely different — deserves particular attention.

Over the centuries, the city had various symbols, but in 1980 this banner was chosen because it appears to have been the one most widely used in different periods, starting with the Sala de los Caballeros XXIV in the Madraza. The people of Granada are very attached to their flag, so much so that in 2008 a major controversy arose when the Patronato de la Alhambra decided to remove it from the tower, leaving only the other three. The mayor immediately called for the flag to be returned to the tower, declaring the gesture unacceptable to any Granadan.

Curiosity
It is traditional that every 2 January, on the anniversary of the conquest of Granada, women who intend to marry during the year go and touch the bell of the Torre de la Vela. On this day, the Patronato de la Alhambra allows free access to the Alcazaba for those who wish to take part in this traditional gesture.

The Jardìn de los Adarves

Since the Christian reconquest of Granada, l’Alcazaba – which in the meantime had assumed predominantly military purposes – was used in various ways. For long periods, including the French occupation, it served as the state prison. It was precisely when the Alcazaba lost its military role that the Jardìn de los Adarves came into being, the lovely garden that you will walk through to reach the towers and bastions from the entrance courtyard – where you will also find access to the Palacio de Carlos V and the complex of Palacios Nazaries.

torre de la vela alhambra

Once the Moors had been expelled and with the Turkish threat gone, the Spanish Empire had no enemies left in this area and an artillery platform here was no longer necessary. It was therefore around 1628 – the date on which the construction of one of the two existing pillars is documented, where the sea genii are depicted on the dolphins – that the Marquis of Mondéjar decided to turn this area into a garden.

Legend Has It...
… it was precisely during that period that porcelain vases filled with gold were found, hidden by the last Muslim inhabitants of the Alhambra, and that the marquis used that very gold to create the garden and adorn it with splashing fountains. Initially divided between a vegetable garden and an ornamental garden, it underwent several later changes before becoming what we see today. Long a place of inspiration for painters such as Mariano Fortuny and Joaquín Sorolla, it is now one of the best places to rest during your visit to the Alhambra, together with the Generalife.

Where to stay?

Don’t forget to read our guide to the neighbourhoods where to stay in Granada! You’ll find tips specifically for visiting the complex, whether you plan to enjoy a dream experience in a hotel within the citadel, or are happy to stay in the central neighbourhoods.

Hotels near the Alhambra

Hotels on the Alhambra hill

Other useful links

Andrea Cuminatto

Journalist and traveller. I speak Spanish and English, and I’m learning Russian. I lived in Spain for a while, in Madrid and Granada, and have travelled around almost all of Europe with a backpack. More than simply seeing places, I love getting to know the people who live there, and I write about some of these experiences on my blog.

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