If your Andalusia itinerary has brought you into the shadow of the hill of the Alhambra in Granada, chances are that, after trudging all day up and down the winding lanes of the Albayzín neighbourhood or through the superb Moorish rooms of the royal palaces, you’ll be faced with a tricky choice: where to eat in Granada?
In the articles of the guide to Granada, I’ve already told you which neighbourhoods are worth venturing into in search of the best restaurants and tapas bars, but in this article the time has come to name the places that impressed me most, so as not to leave you in a panic when hunger gets the better of you.
It’s not easy to rank the top places to eat in Granada, because the choice is truly remarkable in terms of both quantity and quality (the best cuisine is, as a rule, the home-style traditional fare). One of the main reasons for this flourishing of tapas bar, cervecerias, bodegas in Granada lies in one of the city’s most enduring traditions: the free tapas.
That’s right: free tapas in Granada! Unlike other cities of Andalusia, in Granada restaurateurs are keen to proudly keep alive a time-honoured custom: offering a complimentary tapa to patrons of the venue who order a jarra de cerveza (a pint of beer, for those who don’t speak Spanish) or a glass of good rioja, a Granadan wine. Obviously, the tapas offered by restaurateurs won’t be the best their kitchen has to offer: don’t forget to leaf through the à la carte menus to discover what is truly typical to eat in Granada. But let’s go and find out which are the recommended places to eat in Granada.
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Where to eat in Granada? Restaurants and bars in the Albayzín
What do you think of a candlelit dinner on the terrace of a restaurant with a view of the illuminated Alhambra? Well, as you can guess, you’ll have to make your way into the maze of little streets of the Albayzín. There are quite a few restaurants that offer this possibility, and you need to be very careful not to fall for a tourist rip-off — those places that might seat you on a chair with a view of the Alhambra, but then serve poor-quality dishes at outrageous prices.
Mirador de Morayma, dinner with a view of the Alhambra
One we recommend is the Mirador de Morayma (Calle Pianista García Carrillo 2), which, as the name suggests, presents itself as a restaurant that places great emphasis on its fortunate location (see cover photo). The Mirador is situated within one of the neighbourhood’s many carmen – villas with garden or terrace – and is satisfying even when it comes to picking up a fork: the menu offers flavoursome and refined traditional dishes, and the wine list is notable. The bill, as you might imagine, is rather steep, but it’s worth it.
Bar Aliatar Los Caracoles, in the heart of the Albayzín
At the top of the Albayzín, searching for a way out of the labyrinth of the neighbourhood’s splendid white alleyways, you miraculously emerge into the pretty plaza Aliatar, where you’ll find the Bar Los Caracoles (Plaza Aliatar 4), one of the best places to eat in the more popular part of Granada’s Moorish quarter.
If, tired from the climb in search of miradores, you sit at the outside tables in the shade of the trees and order a beer, chances are they’ll bring you a small plate of caracoles (snails), which might even be just the starter of your fish supper: excellent in flavour and good value.
A dinner among the cuevas of Sacromonte
Not everyone chooses to venture into the gypsy quarter, among the cuevas (caves) of the Sacromonte of Granada, along the Camino de Sacromonte, which we mentioned in our article on what to see in Granada. We recommend two places:
- Casa Juanillo (Camino del Sacromonte 83): not everyone likes the rustic style of this restaurant, but the food is good and you can enjoy a lovely view if you’re seated at a table on the panoramic terrace;
- Pibe (Camino del Sacromonte 41): seeing as we’re in the cuevas area, why not pick one to eat in? Pibe is a restaurant (with a view) carved out of one of the area’s traditional caves: the décor is typical, as are the tasty dishes served.
Restaurants and bars in the Plaza Nueva area
La Trastienda, a jamón paradise in Andalusian style
In a sheltered corner on calle Cuchilleros sits La Trastienda (Plaza de Cuchilleros 11), a cosy Andalusian-style bar-restaurant laid out behind a counter where enticing jamones hang, among slicers and scales.
Put this place on your list if you love the renowned Andalusian hams: they serve excellent tapas here, especially featuring jamón serrano, cheeses and cured meats, accompanied by a small glass of fine Rioja. A highly recommended place to eat in Granada.
Los Diamantes, for a lunch of fried fish
At Bar Los Diamantes, situated in Plaza Nueva 13, the focus is mainly on fried fish tapas, and some say there is nowhere in Granada where you can get better fried prawns. The renown of this place — whose original premises are still operating in calle Navas — has always been considerable, so you will very likely find it packed to the rafters, and not only because the fried fish — but also the aubergines and the brain (seso)! – are sublime, but also because the complimentary welcome tapa alone would be enough to sate you completely…
Bodegas Castañeda, mixed platters of excellent tapas
Some people, during their Andalusian gastronomic tours, never tire of tapear, that is, going around in search of the best tapas bar to eat in Granada, nibbling here and there on complimentary or not-so-complimentary little tasters until sated. Well, anyone who arrives at Bodegas Castañeda (calle de Almireceros 1) will very likely be able to consider their search over and make an evening of it here. This place is very popular with tourists and Granada locals alike, so you’ll need to choose the right time to avoid the crowds.
If you manage to snag a little spot, order a beer and a cold or hot tabla combinada — a generous platter of tasty morsels served in a rustic, appetising way, without too many frills. The bill is reasonable.
This place is an absolute must-try and makes a lovely alternative to the restaurants mentioned, which are often a bit clogged with tourists. The space is really very small (around 10 tables) and so it is strongly recommended, if not essential to book. Once you’ve secured your seat, all that’s left is to let the proprietor—who is also the chef’s husband—pamper you by ordering a few dishes from the menu: the attention to detail in the presentation of the dishes, which are tasty and wonderfully imaginative, is the main (but not the only) reason it’s worth coming here! Excellent value for money.
La Antigualla, the eccentric bar dedicated to the Reconquista
Not far from Plaza Nueva, the last bastion before the climb up the Cuesta de Gomerez to the Alhambra, lies La Antigualla (Calle Elvira 22), an eccentric Reconquista-themed tapas bar, decked out with armour, greatswords, shields, helmets and trinkets that are at times a little kitsch. Here they serve “combat” tapas and, although the competition from the venues multiplying along Calle Elvira and nearby streets is fierce, at La Antigualla’s counters, between beers, you can enjoy ever-changing, generous free tapas. The quality and variety of the tapas are certainly not superb, but go even if only to have your photo taken with a beer in your hand next to a soldier in armour!
The centre of Granada
Gran Cafe Bib Rambla, churros and hot chocolate
In the heart of Granada, a quarter of an hour’s walk from the Alhambra hill, is one of the city’s squares most frequented by tourists, Plaza Bib Rambla, which stands on the site once occupied by one of the city’s gates. At the centre of the tree-lined square stands a fountain, while bars, ice-cream parlours and patisseries line its edges: one of the best is, in fact, the Gran Cafe Bib Rambla, whose churros are regarded as an institution, especially when served with the classic hot chocolate: the perfect breakfast before setting off to explore the city.
La Candela, a tapas bar for students and artists
The Bar La Candela is located in calle Panaderas de San Cecilio 9, in the Realejo, adjacent to the small, ramshackle Placeta Ospicio Viejo and, from the outside, appears as an unpretentious place, surrounded by grotesque murals. But, if you can get past any misgivings, I invite you to step inside: you’ll find a small, very well-kept interior, frequented by artists and students from the nearby Centro de Lenguas Modernas.
The montadidos (bruschetta excellently topped with the most varied accompaniments) and the tapas enjoyed at Bar La Candela are by no means gourmet dishes, but they are prepared on the spot and make an excellent option for anyone who wants to eat well at a very reasonable price.
Chikito, Federico García Lorca vouches for it…
Despite its name — which in Malaga could easily belong to a disco-pub — this restaurant is completely different from La Candela. Chikito (Plaza del Campillo Bajo 9) is a historic restaurant in Granada, which I wanted to visit when I discovered that it was frequented by Federico García Lorca, a poet I love very much and who is commemorated here with a statue.
In fact, this is a restaurant where you spend a little more, but eat excellent fish dishes. I recommend the boquerones — fried anchovies — one of the house specialities.
La Bodega de Antonio… to finish in style
The final recommendation concerns La Bodega de Antonio (calle Jardines 4), what we’d call a simple, no-frills tavern but tastefully furnished in a retro style, with barrels, stools and Andalusian-style crockery.
The raciones served in this food-lover’s paradise are very generous! For 10 euro you can share a plate and be almost satisfied: the size of the paella beside it might convince you.
And have you chosen the place where to eat in Granada? What other venues have you discovered during your Granada wanderings in search of welcome tapas? I’m ready to note them down and fill in the gaps (and my stomach) on future visits…
