Among the most enchanting spots in Seville are not only historic neighbourhoods threaded with narrow streets, distinguished stately townhouses featuring typical Andalusian architecture, flamenco schools, ancient churches and traditional restaurants. The squares undoubtedly embody the soul of the city, serving as characteristic meeting places, each with its own peculiarities and secrets.
Just think of the enormous and spectacular Plaza de España, the very ancient and precious Patio de Banderas with its orange trees and the Giralda in the background, Plaza de América with its museums or Plaza la Encarnación which hosts the Metropol Parasol.
Among these, albeit little-known, stands out — for its architectural beauty and particular – la Plaza del Cabildo, which is more a small patio than a square. We’re talking about a genuine hidden gem that escapes the notice of most tourists… and which may even be unknown to some Sevillians.
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Where is it and how to find it?
Plaza del Cabildo is a small, intimate square located in the heart of Seville’s El Arenal district. Although it is central and just two minutes — literally — on foot from the Cathedral and the Real Alcázar, this charming monument is not particularly easy to stumble upon. Perhaps it is precisely this “shyness” that makes the square even more precious and still relatively unknown to mass tourism.
Plaza del Cabildo è raggiungibile only on foot from three different entrances: from Avenida de la Constitución, from Calle Almirantazgo and from Calle Arfe. The most common way to reach it is to enter what, at first glance, may seem like yet another shopping arcade on the Avenida de la Constitución.
This entrance is at number 24, practically opposite the Puerta de la Asunción of the Cathedral. You will find it at a gate, which is closed at night (and indeed Plaza del Cabildo is not accessible at night, not even from the other two streets). Below, a map of the entrances.
Brief history of the Colegio de San Miguel
The name of the square comes from the fact that it stands on the site of the former Colegio de San Miguel, which belonged to the Cabildo (Chapter) of the Cathedral. From 1254 the building had already housed the Escuelas Generales de Latín y Árabe, before being converted into a college where the young choristers of the Cathedral studied and lodged, along with altar boys, sacristans and acolytes.
The college was demolished in the mid-20th century, and on that occasion it was decided to create the square while preserving the idea of the pre-existing inner courtyard. This means that what you see today is the result of a relatively recent construction, albeit perfectly integrated into the urban fabric of the historic centre.
What to see in the little square
Plaza del Cabildo is the work of the architect Joaquín Barquín y Barón, characterised by a three-storey semicircular building with a portico finely frescoed and handsome arches supported by marble columns. The frescoes, depicting floral motifs, are located on the first and third floors and are by the painter José Palomar, born in Seville in the last century and a lover of his city. The monument’s second floor is softened by a flower-filled terrace, as is typical in Andalusian tradition.
At the far end of the square, breaking the geometric pattern of the chequerboard paving, you can admire a circular fountain which, spouting fresh water as often happens in Andalusian patios, lends the little square a further touch of grace. Still on the side opposite the portico, just behind the fountain and partly hidden by foliage, you can see a section of the ancient crenellated walls of Almohad Seville (dating from 1184). The suspended, timeless atmosphere of Plaza del Cabildo is striking precisely because it contrasts with the lively hustle and bustle of the city just outside the square.
The Sunday market at Plaza del Cabildo
If it’s true that the Plaza del Cabildo is a quiet corner of Seville’s lively and bustling Casco Antiguo, on Sundays from 9am to 2pm this corner of the city is transformed into a festive scene and hosts a colourful neighbourhood market specialising in numismatics and philately.
Under the arches of the beautiful portico you’ll find stalls brimming with collectables, and it’s fun to watch Spaniards and foreigners alike who, between haggles, trade coins, stamps, figurines, minerals and other small collectable items. If you have the chance and are in the area, a visit to this small market is a free activity that I recommend you devote a few minutes to between one attraction and another in this charming city.
After all, it’s a great opportunity to get a little insight into the everyday life of Seville’s locals, who take refuge in this hidden little square while, just a stone’s throw away, the mass of tourists heading for the Cathedral or the Alcazar passes by.
During the rest of the week, you can browse the stamp, craft and souvenir shops located under the little square’s porticoes. There’s also the restaurant El Cabildo and the patisserie El Torno, where you can savour sweets prepared by the city’s cloistered nuns, in accordance with a time-honoured tradition.
Where to stay nearby
Plaza del Cabildo is located in the heart of Seville. If you are planning your trip to Andalusia and are looking for where to stay in Seville, in this very central area of the city you will certainly find various options. Being just a few steps from the Cathedral, the streets surrounding Plaza del Cabildo are among the most visited and touristy. If you don’t want to miss anything and want to be close to most of the attractions, the El Arenal neighbourhood, between the cathedral and the Guadalquivir River, is a good alternative to the barrio Santa Cruz.
