You may not know it yet, but the architectural gem concealed behind the simple façade of the residence on Calle Mateos Gago will have the power to astonish you when you least expect it: an artistic and historical treasure will be revealed to your eyes in all its beauty as soon as you step across the threshold of this 16th-century townhouse.
We are in the historic centre of Seville and, hidden among the alleyways of the Barrio Santa Cruz, stands the Casa de Salinas, a genuine example of a manor house built in Seville’s golden age with unique architectural details and very ancient historical elements, such as the precious 2nd-century AD mosaic that you can admire in the patio after viewing the private rooms of the house.
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Where it is and how to get there
Casa de Salinas is located in the heart of Seville, at number 39 Calle Mateos Gago. To get an idea of where you are, bear in mind that the three famous monuments of Plaza del Triunfo — the Cathedral, the Archivo de Indias and the Alcázar of Seville — are just a short distance from this house of considerable historical and artistic value.
As you probably already know, the Casco Antiguo, that is the historic centre of Seville, is characterised by narrow streets that are pedestrian-only. The best way to get around Seville is to walk and lose yourself in this maze of alleyways. However, if you arrive from the outskirts and need to get closer, don’t worry: you’ll find public transport with stops on the city’s main thoroughfares.
History of the house
The original palatial house was built in its present form and proportions from 1577 thanks to Baltasar de Jaén Roelas, one of the illustrious figures living in Seville during the city’s period of great economic and commercial expansion, which had become wealthy and prominent thanks to the discovery of the Americas and the navigability of the Guadalquivir River, ideal for overseas trade. The Jaén family remained the owners of this residence until 1843, when their line died out.
From that moment on the house was used in various ways: as a base for Napoleonic troops, as a printing press in the 1820s, as a school and a boarding school, and as the headquarters of a Masonic lodge. The latter use of the house is certainly the one that gave rise to the most legends and mysteries. In particular, it was thought that the walls were haunted by the ghosts of people killed here and that there was even a hidden treasure. Despite lengthy searches and numerous excavations, it was never found.
In 1930 the house passed from the Ybarra family to Don Manuel de Salinas Malagamba, who made it his family home and began a series of works to restore it to the beauty and splendour of its sixteenth-century origins.
What to see inside Casa de Salinas
Today the house is only partially open to visitors because it is actually inhabited by the Salinas, a fact that makes it unexpectedly “lived-in” and gives it a different charm compared with other Sevillian townhouses that feel more like museums than homes. What to expect then? Even though from the outside it might not look like it, inside the Casa de Salinas conceals a remarkable combination of Moorish, Gothic and Renaissance styles, capable of surprising even the most sceptical.
This stately late 16th-century building is laid out over two storeys around a principal central courtyard whose marble columns characterise the finely decorated semicircular arches. Particularly captivating are the patterns developed on the tiles made in Triana in the 17th century, called upon to decorate the walls
Not to be missed then – dulcis in fundo, during the final part of the visit – is the palace’s second patio, adorned at its centre by a 2nd-century mosaic floor made in the Roman city of Italica. Here you can also admire the stone sculpture of Our Lady of Remedies, originating from an ancient convent in Seville.
Among the rooms that characterise the two storeys, the winter dining room on the first floor and the summer dining room on the ground floor stand out, each with architectural features linked to the seasons. During the visit you can observe them in minute detail and enjoy the aesthetic of their fine furnishings.
Guided tour times and prices
The best way to get to know and appreciate Casa de Salinas is through guided tours organised in Spanish and English every day from Monday to Friday, including public holidays.
The tour times are:
- From 16 October to 14 June at 10:00 am and 6:00 pm
- From 15 June to 15 October at 10:00 am and 2:00 pm.
The ticket office closes 30 minutes before the last tour and the ticket price is €12 per person and €6 for children under 11 and for disabled visitors. For groups of over 10 people the cost is €10 per person. You can contact casadesalinasguias@gmail.com for more information or book via the link below.
Where to stay nearby
Although you won’t be able to sleep in a guest room in the owners’ residence of Casa de Salinas, choosing to stay in the Barrio Santa Cruz in the Casco Antiguo of the city is certainly an excellent choice if you’re looking for where to stay in Sevillea. Although the average cost is higher here than in other neighbourhoods of the city, this area is full of characterful buildings brimming with charm that will let you fully soak up the Andalusian atmosphere.
