Eating tapas in Málaga is a real pleasure: the lively, infectious atmosphere of this seaside city – which we talk about in our Málaga guide – really works up an appetite, and if there is one thing Málaga is certainly not short of, it is restaurants and tapas bars.
During my visits, besides getting used to the odd meal times (if you choose to adapt, you eat after 21.30), I was struck by the number of venues, large and small, scattered through the narrow streets of the city centre, and by the boisterous cluster of tables laden with tapas and glasses of beer or red wine. But cosa mangiare a Malaga? What are the specialties you savour in the shadow of the Alcazaba? And above all… dove mangiare a Malaga?
The undisputed star of Malaga’s tables is, without doubt, the fish: besides the classic paella, among Malaga’s typical dishes is the frittura malagueña, a generous fried fish platter. Unless you choose low‑quality or overly touristy restaurants, you’ll always find fresh fish: it’s enjoyed both in tapas bars and in restaurants in the city centre, but especially in the chiringuitos along the seafront of Pedregalejo and El Palo, neighbourhoods a little off‑centre but highly recommended in this regard.
You’ll easily recognise them by the characteristic grills, made from disused boats that recall the area’s old fishing vocation to the east of Malaga’s centre. But we’ll talk about that shortly.
At this point, all that’s left is to name the places where to eat in Malaga. Which are the best tapas bars and restaurants in the city? First we’ll mention the institutions — those venues which, despite being frequented by large numbers of tourists, maintain an excellent quality of service and allow you to enjoy a gastronomic experience worthy of their reputation, so much so that it’s not uncommon to see even locals dining there; subsequently we’ll give you a few tips on some lesser-known places that we really liked.
Where to eat in Málaga? The institutions
Casa Aranda (Calle Herreria Del Rey, 1)
Let’s start with breakfast, as is fitting. I still remember that, one Sunday, I left the house at 9.30 and the streets of the city centre were literally deserted: it struck me, but it didn’t take away my appetite.
It was then that I discovered that the malagueñi eat churros in the morning, the traditional sweet fried pastry. You will find them in every self‑respecting bar or café in all shapes and sizes, but Casa Aranda is renowned for its churro breakfasts, and for its hot chocolate.
Tapeo de Cervantes (Cárcer Street, 8)
Second institution, with a literary flavour: Tapeo de Cervantes. Usually, this tiny place is the budget choice for those who can’t afford the nearby, spectacular Meson de Cervantes, which is still reasonably priced, as are most restaurants in Malaga. It’s run by the same management, and the quality of the tapas is exceptionally high: tradition is interpreted with style and originality.
In addition to the pescado dishes, I recommend the Porra Antequerana, a soup made from stale bread, tomato, garlic, egg, peppers and ham, a typical dish from Antequera, a town in the province of Malaga. The place is small: book ahead!
Antigua Casa de Guardia (Alameda Principal, 18)
On the Alameda Principal stands the Antigua Casa de Guardia, a historic bodega (bar/cellar) founded in 1840 (as proudly stated on the plaque at the entrance), vouched for by none other than the Málaga-born Picasso, pictured in high spirits — glass in hand — in one of the photographs adorning the walls of the establishment (to stay on topic, we’re 10 minutes from the Picasso Museum in Málaga).
Wine is drawn from the casks and the patrons — tourists aside — look like extras in a period drama. Try a sherry or a Malaga moscatel, savouring the seafood tapas on offer: few but good. And above all, what matters is that you’ve rested your elbows on a counter that has made Malaga’s history!
El Pimpi (62 Granada Street)
There are two main strengths of the bodega El Pimpi: its night‑time soul and, above all, its excellent location. Behind the remains of the Roman Theatre – one of the most beautiful places of interest in Malaga -, in a sheltered corner of Calle Granada, you’ll find this charming little spot with a courtyard and outdoor tables. Here you can savour excellent aperitifs and appetising Andalusian tapas.
El Pimpi fills up in the evenings: in front of the huge wine casks signed by VIPs a crowd of young and not‑so‑young people gathers, with a glass of wine in one hand and a small plate of fish in the other. A great place to soak up a bit of authentic atmosphere in an area that has been taken over by touristy venues.
Restaurant Vino Mio (Plaza Jeronimo Cuervo, 2)
Finally, an unusual place to eat in Malaga. Vino Mio is located in a square that would otherwise only offer kebabs and falafel: the white tables of this restaurant lack the traditional charm of the bodegas, but do try to go in… as well as excellent Spanish tapas, you’ll also find international dishes, which give you the chance to have an experience that goes beyond the concept of local cuisine.
One of the strengths of this restaurant is the cultural offering that accompanies its culinary art: many diners are enticed, not only by the food, but also by the chance to see a flamenco performance.
The other recommended places
Cortijo de Pepe (Plaza Merced, 2)
Hard to find in the tourist guides: the Cortijo de Pepe is the classic example of a traditional Seventies tavern where you can enjoy typical dishes divinely cooked. Sit on the balcony or by the splendid fireplace and order fish or a portion of choto al ajillo malagueño, a savoury local meat dish that I warmly suggest you share with another person. Pure enjoyment guaranteed!
Seafood restaurants in Pedregalejo and El Palo
If you want to have an authentic culinary experience and truly get away from the tourist trail, you must head to the seafront of Pedregalejo and El Palo, reachable by public transport or by taxi in just over 15 minutes.
Here, as mentioned, you’ll find a myriad of excellent restaurants and chiringuitos where the à la carte menu is merely a detail: rather, it’s best to let the waiter serve you, savouring the hospitality and the genuine food that comes out, like a vision, from the kitchens specialising in the preparation of pescado.
The four places recommended here are all very close to each other, but we list them in order of distance from Malaga city centre:
- El Lirio (Paseo Marítimo el Pedregal, 11): white-and-blue tables just a couple of metres from the beach, a homely atmosphere, an open grill and fabulous food. Ideal for big meals and family lunches. UPDATE: the restaurant closed in 2017.
- El Caleño (Calle Cenacheros, 16): follow the irresistible smell of grilled fish and you will find yourself in front of El Caleño’s old fishing boat, converted into a grill. It is not cheap, but the food is superb.
- Gabi (Calle Quitapenas, 73): this authentic restaurant in El Palo places its red tables along the seafront. On the other side of the paseo, on the beach, you will find the classic boat-grill, a sign of quality. The paella is particularly good.
- El Tintero (Calle Playa del Chanquete, 99): the exact opposite of a restaurant for a candlelit dinner. This busy place is loved by the hungriest malagueños and is perfect for a huge fish dinner with friends.
These are just some of the recommended places to eat in Malaga, perhaps before throwing yourself headlong into the movida: all that’s left for you is to choose the one that inspires you most!
