In July, the beaches of Andalusia quickly fill up with Spaniards and travellers from all over Europe. The holiday atmosphere (and the climate) becomes scorching hot, but the Andalusians’ typical urge to celebrate does not seem to need any respite. Among the exponential increase in events and beach parties, there is one that Andalusians await with particular excitement, and which may be of interest and curiosity to holidaymakers: the feast of the Virgen del Carmen in Malaga.
Malaga, as we know – with its August Feria and not only that – could quite easily claim the crown as queen of celebrations and fun in Andalusia, and on 16 July, on the occasion of the feast of the Virgen del Carmen patroness of fishermen, it wastes no time in confirming this festive spirit.
However, the feast in honour of the Virgin does not concern Malaga alone, but a large number of places – more or less touristy – along the Andalusian coastline, from the Costa de la Luz in Cadiz, to the Costa del Sol, and as far as the easternmost end, the Costa de Almería. From Estepona to Cadiz, via Nerja and Almería, around 16 July the Andalusian fishing villages and seaside resorts prepare to honour two of the most deeply rooted traditions in their culture, this time brought together: seafaring life and religious devotion.
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Virgen del Carmen in Malaga
In our article dedicated to the beaches of Malaga, we described the character of the districts of El Palo and Pedregalejo, two fishing villages now absorbed into Malaga’s eastern district. These two areas, much loved by the people of Malaga, are home to popular beaches and a string of beachside fish bars and restaurants, perhaps the best places to eat in Malaga: while the August fair is held mainly in the central areas of the city, it is here and on the beaches west of the centre that the festivities in honour of the Virgen del Carmen take place, lasting at least 3 days.
What do these celebrations consist of? The Virgen del Carmen, also known as Stella Maris, is carried in procession through all the city’s fishing districts, where people await her dressed in traditional costumes and barefoot, often even wading into the water. On 16 July and the following days, the fishing nets and festively decorated boats that sail in a procession across the sea in front of the statue of the Virgin are blessed.
The most moving moment is the emergence of the statue of the Virgen del Carmen de los Submarinistas from the Bahía de Malaga: the statue, which spends the year in a niche at the bottom of the sea, is carried in procession and then immersed again in its place.
Advice on where to stay in Malaga
Other Virgen del Carmen festivals in the province of Malaga
In the province of Malaga, there are many seaside towns that on 16 July warmly celebrate the Virgen del Carmen. One of these is Estepona, the Costa del Sol town that has most successfully managed to preserve its integrity as a traditional fishing village, without giving in too much to the temptations of the hotel developers who have invaded the Costa del Sol.
Virgen del Carmen in Estepona
In Estepona, the festivities begin in the morning, when the procession of the beautiful Stella Maris takes place. As the traditional blessing of the festively decorated boats is carried out, the beaches fill with people taking part in games and sports activities in the water. Needless to say, the fish restaurants are packed with people and the beach parties go on until late into the night.
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Virgen del Carmen in Marbella
Even the chic little town of Marbella dresses up for the occasion on 16 July: the Virgen del Carmen is a much-loved festival, second only to that dedicated to the patron saint, San Bernabé. The procession of the Virgen is a riot of flowers and colour, and culminates with the blessing of the boats at the renowned Puerto Banús, a place much loved by the VIP set. Here too there are no shortages of competitions, games, parties and food events on all the beaches of Marbella. If you decide to visit, plan your trip with our article Marbella, what to see?.
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Virgen del Carmen in Nerja
On the eastern Costa del Sol, you need to make your way to the splendid Nerja, where the Virgen del Carmen festival has a special feature: while in other towns the Madonna is occasionally taken out to sea on generic boats or ones selected each year, in Nerja there is a boat designed and built specifically for the Virgen del Carmen, onto which she is hoisted amid a blaze of white flowers, before the faithful gathered on Nerja’s beaches.
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Virgen del Carmen in Rincón de la Victoria
Even in Rincón de la Victoria, the festivities on 16 July are famously grand and captivating: the Virgin is honoured with beautiful floral crowns and accompanied along the seafront by a band and a procession of sailors, followed by the faithful, all the way to the water’s edge to bless the sea and the local fishermen’s boats.
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Festivals in the provinces of Cadiz and Almería
Not just Málaga: many other fishing villages in the province of Cadiz and Almería are devoted to the Virgen del Carmen. Here are a few examples:
Virgen del Mar in Barbate
A Barbate – one of the various seaside villages on the Costa de la Luz, guardian of some of the most beautiful beaches in Cadiz – the Virgen del Carmen is even the patron saint of the town: it follows that the feast in honour of the Madonna becomes a veritable city feria that lasts almost a week. In addition to the traditional religious rites and processions at sea and along the coast, Barbate hosts beach parties, dance and music shows, games and a sandcastle championship.
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Virgen del Mar and Juegos Moriscos in Purchena
In the province of Almería there are many seaside towns that celebrate the Virgen del Carmen, but it is rather striking to discover that the most famous festival is that of Purchena, a small inland village. Why is Stella Maris celebrated in a mountain village? Some say that, at the end of the 19th century, prayers to the Virgin brought an end to a long period of drought… hence the devotion. In the days that follow, in Purchena, the now famous Juegos Moriscos de Aben Humeya, take place, a historical event during which costumed reenactments and traditional games are held.
Córdoba Guitar Festival
In addition to the festivities on the coast, it is worth mentioning an event that will certainly interest music lovers. In Cordoba, straddling June and July, the renowned Festival de la Guitarra, is held every year — a monumental two-week event packed with concerts and performances in which the undisputed star is a musical instrument: the guitar.
Alongside the classic flamenco concerts, during these two weeks virtuosos from all over the world are invited to play music of every kind: from rock to classical, from metal to ballet and jazz… in Cordoba, music wins out. The atmosphere is one of great passion and the programme usually appeals both to guitar traditionalists and to lovers of experimentation. Here is the official website.
